How to Fix a Power Wheels Car: A Comprehensive Troubleshooting Guide

Power Wheels cars are a source of endless fun for kids, offering them their first taste of driving and adventure. However, like any vehicle, these battery-powered ride-ons can encounter problems. If your child’s Power Wheels is acting up, don’t worry! This guide provides you with expert advice on how to diagnose and fix common issues, getting your little one back on the road in no time.

Common Power Wheels Problems and Solutions

From electrical glitches to mechanical noises, Power Wheels can experience a range of issues. Let’s dive into some of the most frequent problems and how you can resolve them.

Power Wheels Keeps Blowing Fuses or Popping Breakers

One of the most common frustrations when upgrading or even just using a Power Wheels over time is dealing with blown fuses or tripped breakers. It’s tempting to blame new parts if you’ve recently made modifications, but the issue is usually related to increased electrical demand.

Power Wheels are equipped with fuses or breakers designed to protect the stock components – motors and batteries – from excessive amperage. When you enhance performance by increasing voltage or installing faster motors, you also increase the flow of electricity (amperage).

Think of it like this: voltage is the number of cars on a highway, and amperage is their speed. Your Power Wheels motors are the destination (like a stadium), and the battery is the source of traffic (residents). Upgrading to faster motors (building a bigger stadium) or increasing voltage (more houses) means more traffic and faster speeds (increased amperage).

The problem arises when there’s a bottleneck in your electrical “highway” – inefficient wiring or components. This causes an amperage overflow, tripping the fuse or breaker as a safety measure, much like a traffic jam on a narrow section of road. This often happens at electrical “turns” like shifter and foot pedal switches, or any added connectors in the system.

While Power Wheels wiring in good condition can handle up to 24 volts and 775-size motors, aging switches become less capable of managing increased loads.

Here’s how to fix it:

• Upgrade your Fuse/Breaker: If you’ve upgraded your battery or motors, immediately switch to a 40 amp fuse or a self-resetting 40 amp breaker. These are designed to handle the higher amperage draw of modified systems.

• Inspect and Replace Foot Pedal Switch: Examine the bottom of the foot plunger switch for green or black corrosion. Clean or replace the connectors and consider replacing the switch itself. If the copper wire looks blackened, that section of the wire harness needs replacement.

• Test Switches with an Ohm Meter: Use an ohm meter to test all switches for resistance. A switch might look fine externally but be faulty internally. If you don’t have a meter, switches are inexpensive enough to replace preemptively, especially if you’re increasing voltage. Keeping spare switches is also a good idea.

• Check Wire Splices: If you’ve spliced any wires, disassemble the splice and ensure it’s properly done. Soldering is the most reliable method for electrical connections.

• Motor Mounting: If you used a power drill to tighten the motors, remove them, apply threadlock to the screws, and hand-tighten them. Overtightening can cause issues.

• Inspect Rear Axle: Check your rear axle for even the slightest bend by rolling it on a flat surface. A bent axle can cause excessive strain and electrical problems, and can also damage gears and gearbox housings.

• Battery Condition and Type: Old batteries, particularly stock Power Wheels batteries with their built-in 30 amp breakers, can struggle with increased amperage as they age. Consider replacing them. If upgrading batteries, our upgrade batteries come with 40 amp fuses. Crucially, never use batteries exceeding 12 amp hours.

• Rubber Tires: Remove rubber tires if installed. The spinning plastic wheel acts as a clutch. Rubber tires add excessive grip, eliminating this clutch effect and leading to blown fuses, gear damage, motor failure, and costly repairs.

• Pro Tip for Bravo Grave Diggers: For Bravo Grave Digger Power Wheels experiencing fuse issues, a new shifter from Bravo often resolves the problem, based on customer reports.

Alt text: Replacing a blown 40 amp fuse in a Power Wheels car to resolve electrical overload issues.

One Motor Isn’t Working in Your Power Wheels

This section addresses situations where a motor is completely silent. If you hear both motors running but only one wheel is turning, skip to the next section on grinding noises.

To isolate a motor issue, perform a simple test: disconnect the motor from the Power Wheels wiring and apply 12 volts directly from a battery. If the motor spins normally, the motor itself is not the problem. A motor that works in one direction will work in both and at all speeds. If the motor remains unresponsive, it needs replacement as Power Wheels motors are not repairable.

Troubleshooting steps if one motor is not working:

• Battery Compatibility: Ensure you are using the correct battery voltage for your motors. Stock 550 motors are designed for up to 12 volts with SLA batteries. Performance 550 motors can handle up to 18v with SLA batteries or 20v with lithium batteries when used with a Lithium Module. Lithium power tool batteries have significantly higher discharge rates, which can overwhelm standard motors and gears without proper management. A voltage regulator alone is insufficient to manage this discharge rate. Performance 775 motors are designed for up to 24 volts with SLA batteries.

• Motor Break-in: Did you properly break in new performance motors? Performance motors require “seating” the motor brushes to the commutator under a minimal load. Elevate the rear of the Power Wheels and run it at low speed for the duration specified in the manufacturer’s instructions. Skipping this step can cause excessive sparking within the motor and damage a motor brush, which is irreparable.

• Pinion Gear Compatibility: Is the pinion gear on the motor the correct tooth count and pitch for your gearbox? Only the 7R gearbox allows for tooth count changes, and the compatible range is typically printed on the gearbox housing. Using an oversized pinion gear creates a too-tight gear mesh, straining the motor and potentially causing motor failure or stripping/melting of the first gear. The pitch (tooth shape) must also be compatible and cannot be altered.

• Tire Modifications and Motor Overheating: Modified tires, especially rubber or high-traction tires, can cause motors to overheat. The original plastic wheels act as a clutch, and increased traction removes this safety mechanism, straining motors and gears. Larger diameter tires also change the gear ratio, potentially overheating motors. Counteract larger tires with smaller pinion gears. Heavier tires also increase motor strain and may require smaller pinions.

• Motor Wiring: Inspect the wires connected to the non-working motor. A wire tab may have broken off a stock motor. If so, motor replacement is necessary.

Alt text: Testing a Power Wheels 550 performance motor directly with a 12V battery to diagnose motor functionality.

Power Wheels Car Won’t Move At All, No Sound from Gears

If your Power Wheels is completely unresponsive and you hear no motor or gear sounds, the problem is likely power-related or a critical electrical component failure.

Troubleshooting steps for a completely unresponsive Power Wheels:

• Battery Voltage Check: Use a voltmeter to test your battery. A fully charged 12V battery should read around 14 volts, and no less than 12 volts when not charging. Below 12 volts indicates the battery needs replacement.

• Charger and Outlet Check: Ensure your battery charger is plugged into a functioning electrical outlet before connecting it to the battery. Test the outlet with another device to confirm it’s providing power.

• Foot Pedal Switch Inspection: The switch under the gas pedal is a common point of failure. Most footboard assemblies are press-fit and can be carefully pried loose with a flat-head screwdriver. Look for corrosion under the footboard, which is usually visually apparent. If corrosion is present, replace the connectors and the switch.

• Motor Wiring Check (Again): Re-inspect the motor wires. As mentioned before, a broken wire tab on a stock motor necessitates motor replacement.

Alt text: Inspecting the foot pedal switch and connectors in a Power Wheels for corrosion as a cause of power failure.

Power Wheels Car Has No Reverse and Only 1 Forward Speed

If your Power Wheels only moves forward at one speed and lacks reverse, the issue likely lies in the shifter or directional switch.

Troubleshooting steps for limited directional control:

• Motor Wiring (Yet Again): While repetitive, a broken motor wire tab can also cause directional issues. Double-check those motor wires!

• Shifter/Dashboard Switch Problems: If your Power Wheels has a shifter assembly, one of the switches within it may have failed. Similarly, if you have a dashboard switch for direction, it could be faulty. Testing or replacing these switches is the solution.

Alt text: Power Wheels shifter assembly with multiple switches responsible for forward, reverse, and speed control.

Power Wheels Car Has No Hi Speed Forward

If your Power Wheels operates in low forward speed but not high speed, it might be a simple setting or a switch issue.

Troubleshooting steps for no high-speed forward:

• High-Speed Lockout: Many Power Wheels models have a high-speed lockout feature for younger children. Vehicles with a shifter assembly often have a screw or pin at the base of the shifter handle that disables high speed. Remove this screw or pin to enable high speed. For dashboard shifting switches, look under the dashboard or handlebars for a disconnected white connector. Plugging this connector in usually activates high speed.

• Shifter/Dashboard Switch Problems (Again): If the lockout isn’t the issue, suspect a faulty switch within the shifter assembly or the dashboard switch itself, as mentioned in the previous section.

Power Wheels Car is Making a Grinding Noise

A grinding noise usually indicates stripped gears or a damaged wheel driver.

Diagnosing and fixing grinding noises:

• Wheel Driver Inspection: The easiest first step is to remove the tire on the side where you hear the noise and inspect the wheel driver. Damage here is often visually apparent.

• Gearbox Inspection: If the wheel driver is fine, open the gearbox on the noisy side. Gearbox inspection is straightforward, and nothing should spring apart when you open it. Stripped gears will be obvious. Pro Tip: If one gearbox is stripped, the other is likely to fail soon. Replace both gearboxes preventively.

Common causes of gearbox damage and how to prevent recurrence:

• Melted Gearbox Housing (Final Drive Gear Area): This indicates excessive or uneven pressure on the final drive gear. Common causes include:

  • Bent Axle: Even a slight axle bend can cause this.
  • Modified Tires: Rubber tires or oversized tires can increase stress.
  • Frame Damage: Damage to the frame where the axle mounts can misalign components.

• Melted Gearbox Housing (First Gear Shaft Area): Heat buildup from the spinning first gear causes this. Contributing factors are:

  • Lack of Grease: Insufficient grease on the shaft increases friction.
  • Debris/Old Grease: Contamination in the gearbox can cause friction.
  • Solution: Upgrade to our hardened steel first gear and hardened steel pinions. These first gears use ball bearings, eliminating heat buildup.

• Stripped First Gear: The first gear is the gearbox’s weakest point and often the first to fail with increased power.

  • Angled Stripping: Indicates the motor wasn’t bolted tightly and evenly to the gearbox.
  • Half-Tooth Stripping: The pinion gear wasn’t centered over the first gear.
  • Few Teeth Missing: A sudden jolt to the gearbox.
  • All Teeth Stripped: Could be any of the above causes.
  • Solution: Upgrade to a hardened steel first gear and hardened steel pinions for maximum durability. A brake reduction module can also extend gear life and improve ride enjoyment by reducing stress on the gears during braking.

• Broken Teeth (2nd, 3rd, or Final Drive Gear): Caused by sudden impacts or jolts to the gearbox, typically from:

  • Direction Changes Without Stopping: Shifting from forward to reverse or vice versa while moving.
  • Hitting Obstacles: Collisions with immovable objects.
  • Note: These gears are robust enough to handle 775 motors at 24 volts with SLA batteries when driven responsibly.

• Stripped Pinion Gear: Usually due to using the wrong material or shape.

  • Material: If using a hardened steel first gear, you must use a hardened steel pinion, not just any metal pinion. With the stock first gear, material is less critical.
  • Pitch: The gear pitch (tooth spacing) must be 32.
  • Tooth Shape: Pinion tooth shape is crucial for proper meshing with both stock and modified first gears and varies significantly between brands. Using correctly shaped pinions, like ours, is essential.

Alt text: Diagram of a Power Wheels gearbox assembly, illustrating the location of gears, wheel driver, and motor pinion for troubleshooting grinding noises.

Power Wheels Car Shuts Off Then Restarts in 30 Seconds

This symptom usually occurs in stock Power Wheels with older batteries or increased amperage draw from modifications or a binding drivetrain. The internal 30 amp circuit breaker in the battery trips and then automatically resets after 30 seconds.

Troubleshooting steps for shutdown/restart issues:

• Drivetrain Binding: Ensure the rear axle is perfectly straight and the wheels turn freely without resistance.

• Vehicle Load: Reduce the vehicle’s weight load.

• Driving Conditions: Avoid driving in tall grass or other high-resistance environments.

• Battery Upgrade: Consider upgrading to our batteries which use a 40 amp fuse and offer 30% longer run time. This is often necessary for 24 volt systems or vehicles with 775 motors.

When to Seek Professional Help

If you’ve tried these troubleshooting steps and are still experiencing problems with your Power Wheels, or if you prefer professional assistance:

• Authorized Power Wheels Service Center: For stock Power Wheels vehicles, locate your local Authorized Power Wheels Service Center.

• Manufacturer Support: For other brands, contact their customer support through their website.

• Modified Power Wheels Support: If you’re having trouble with a Power Wheels that includes modifications from us, revisit the suggestions above and then reach out to our technicians via the Contact Us page.

By following this comprehensive guide, you should be well-equipped to diagnose and fix most common Power Wheels problems. Get ready to bring the joy of driving back to your little one!

Back to top

RELATED VIDEO: How a Power Wheels Works